Starter Circuit Troubleshooting

• Air temperature must be between 15 and 38 °C (59 and 100 °F) during this procedure.
  
• After this inspection, you must reset engine control module (ECM)/powertrain control module (PCM), otherwise the ECM/PCM will continue to stop the fuel injectors from functioning. Select ECM/PCM reset using the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS).
  
• The battery must be in good condition and fully charged.
  

1.	Hook up the following equipment: Ammeter, 0-400 A Voltmeter, 0-20 V (accurate within 0.1 V)

2.	Connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC).

3.	Turn the ignition switch ON (II).

4.	Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle and the ECM/PCM. If it doesn't, troubleshoot the DLC circuit.

5.	Select PGM-FI, INSPECTION, then ALL INJECTORS OFF on the HDS.

6.	With the shift lever Park or Neutral, turn the ignition switch to START (III). Does the starter crank the engine normally? YES - The starting system is OK. Go to 13. NO - Go to 7.

7.

Check the battery condition. Check electrical connections at the battery, the negative battery cable to body, the engine ground cables, and the starter for looseness and corrosion. Then try cranking the engine again. Does the starter crank the engine? YES - Repairing the loose connection corrected the problem. The starting system is OK. Go to 13. NO - Check the following: If the starter will not crank the engine at all, go to 8. If it cranks the engine erratically or too slowly, go to 10. If it does not disengage from the flywheel or torque converter ring gear when you release the key, or remove and disassemble it and check for the following: Solenoid plunger and switch malfunction Dirty drive gear or damaged overrunning clutch

8.

Make sure the transmission is in Park or Neutral, and set the parking brake. Disconnect the starter subharness 1P connector (A) from the main wire harness 1P connector (B). Connect a jumper wire from the battery positive terminal to the starter subharness 1P connector.   Does the starter crank the engine? YES - Go to 9. NO - Check the BLK/WHT wire between the starter subharness 1P connector and the starter. If wire is OK, remove the starter, and repair or replace as necessary.n

9.

Check the following items in the order listed until you find the open circuit: The YEL wire and connectors between the under-dash fuse/relay box and the ignition switch. The RED wire and connectors between the under-dash fuse/relay box and the main wire harness 1P connector. The ignition switch. The transmission range switch and connector (A/T). The starter cut relay.

10.

While cranking the engine, check the cranking voltage and the current draw. Is the cranking voltage greater than or equal to 8.0 V and the current draw less than or equal to 200 A? YES - Go to 11. NO - Replace the starter, or remove and disassemble it, and check the following:n Drag in the starter armature Shorted armature winding Excessive drag in the engine

11.

Check the engine speed while cranking the engine. Is the engine speed above 100 rpm (min-1)? YES - Go to 12. NO - Replace the starter, or remove and disassemble it, and check the following:n Open circuit in the starter armature commutator segments Excessively worn starter brushes Open circuit in the commutator brushes Dirty or damaged helical splines or drive gear Faulty drive gear clutch

12.	Remove the starter, and inspect its drive gear and the torque converter ring gear for damage. Replace any damaged parts.

13.	Select ECM/PCM reset to cancel ALL INJECTORS OFF on the HDS.