Power Window Master Switch Input Test

NOTE: The power window control unit is built into the power window master switch.

1.Remove the power window master switch (A).

 

2.Disconnect the 22P connector (B) from the master switch.

3.Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact.

  • If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system.
  • If the terminals look OK, make the following input tests at the connector.
    • If a test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
    • If all the input tests prove OK, the power window master switch must be faulty; replace it.

4.With the master switch still disconnected, make these input tests at the connector.

  • If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
  • If all the input tests prove OK, go to 5.

Cavity Wire Test condition Test: Desired result Possible cause if result is not obtained 
9
[2] 		GRN Connect the No. 4 [No. 3] and the No. 9 [No. 2] terminals and No. 10 [No. 1] and No. 11 [No. 12] terminals momentarily with jumper wires Check driver's window motor operation:
The window should go down. 
  • Faulty driver's window motor
  • An open in the wire
 
10
[1] 		YEL Connect the No. 4 [No. 3] and the No. 10 [No. 1] terminals and No. 9 [No. 2] and No. 11 [No. 12] terminals momentarily with jumper wires Check driver's window motor operation:
The window should go up. 
1
[10] 		ORN Connect the No. 4 [No. 3] and the No. 1 [No. 10] terminals and No. 2 [No. 9] and No. 11 [No. 12] terminals momentarily with jumper wires Check front passenger's window motor operation:
The window should go down. 
  • Faulty front passenger's window motor
  • Faulty front passenger's window switch
  • An open in the wire
 
2
[9] 		BRN Connect the No. 4 [No. 3] and the No. 2 [No. 9] terminals and No. 1 [No. 10] and No. 11 [No. 12] terminals momentarily with jumper wires Check front passenger's window motor operation:
The window should go up. 
13 LT BLU Connect the No. 20 and the No. 14 terminals and No. 13 and No. 12 terminals momentarily with jumper wires Check right rear window motor operation:
The window should go down. 
  • Faulty right rear window motor
  • Faulty right rear window switch
  • An open in the wire
 
14 RED Connect the No. 20 and the No. 13 terminals and No. 14 and No. 12 terminals momentarily with jumper wires Check right rear window motor operation:
The window should go up. 
21 PUR Connect the No. 15 and the No. 21 terminals and No. 22 and No. 12 terminals momentarily with jumper wires Check left rear window motor operation:
The window should go down. 
  • Faulty left rear window motor
  • Faulty left rear window switch
  • An open in the wire
 
22 GRN Connect the No. 15 and the No. 22 terminals and No. 21 and No. 12 terminals momentarily with jumper wires Check left rear window motor operation:
The window should go up. 

[ ]: RHD type 

5.Reconnect the 22P connector to the power window master switch. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and make these input tests at the connector.

  • If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
  • If all the input tests prove OK, the control unit must be faulty; replace the power window master switch.

Cavity Wire Test condition Test: Desired result Possible cause if result is not obtained 
3
[4] 		GRN Ignition switch ON (II) Check for voltage to ground:
There should be battery voltage. 
  • Blown No. 30 (20 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
  • Faulty power window relay
  • Faulty MICU
  • An open in the wire
 
4
[3] 		WHT Under all conditions Check for voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage. 
  • Blown No. 26 (20 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box
  • An open in the wire
 
15 RED Ignition switch ON (II) Check for voltage to ground:
There should be battery voltage. 
  • Blown No. 33 (20 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
  • Faulty power window relay
  • Faulty MICU
  • An open in the wire
 
20 PUR Ignition switch ON (II) Check for voltage to ground:
There should be battery voltage. 
  • Blown No. 32 (20 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
  • Faulty power window relay
  • Faulty MICU
  • An open in the wire
 
7 BRN Under all conditions Check for voltage to ground:
There should be less than 0.5 V. 
  • Poor ground (G503)
  • An open in the wire
 
11[12] BLK Under all conditions Check for voltage to ground:
There should be lass than 0.5 V. 
  • Poor ground (G503)
  • An open in the wire
 
12[11] BLK Under all conditions Check for voltage to ground:
There should be less than 0.5 V. 
  • Poor ground (G503)
  • An open in the wire
 
16 PUR Ignition switch ON (II) Check for voltage to ground:
There should be battery voltage. 
  • Faulty power window master switch
  • Short in the wire
 
5 PNK Ignition switch ON (II), and driver's window switch moving up or down Check for voltage between the No. 5 and No. 7 terminals:
There should be 0 V-about 5 V-0 V- about 5 V repeatedly (a digital voltmeter should reads about 2.5 V while the window moves). 
  • Faulty power window master switch
  • Faulty driver's power window motor
  • An open in the wire
  • Short in the wire
 
6 ORN Ignition switch ON (II), and driver's window switch moving up or down Check for voltage between the No. 6 and No. 7 terminals:
There should be 0 V-about 5 V-0 V- about 5 V repeatedly (a digital voltmeter should reads about 2.5 V while the window moves). 

[ ]: RHD type 


6.Reset the power window control unit.