| 1. | Drive the vehicle until the brakes drag or until the pedal is high and hard. This can take 20 or more brake pedal applications during an extended test-drive. |
| 2. | With the engine running, raise the vehicle on a lift, and spin all four wheels by hand. Is there brake drag at any of the wheels? YES - Go to 3. NO - Look for other causes of the pad wear, high pedal, or vehicle vibration.n |
| 3. | Turn the engine off, pump the brake pedal to deplete the vacuum in the brake booster, and then spin the wheels again to check for brake drag. Is there brake drag at any of the wheels? YES - Go to 4. NO - Replace the brake booster: LHD type, RHD type.n |
| 4. | Without removing the brake lines, unbolt and separate the master cylinder from the booster, then spin the wheels to check for brake drag. Is there brake drag at any of the wheels? YES - Go to 5. NO - Check the brake pedal position switch adjustment and pedal free play.n |
| 5. | Loosen the hydraulic lines at the master cylinder, then spin the wheels to check for brake drag. Is there brake drag at any of the wheels? YES - Go to 6. NO - Replace the master cylinder.n |
| 6. | Loosen the bleed screws at each caliper or wheel cylinder, then spin the wheels to check for brake drag. Is there brake drag at any of the wheels? YES - Disassemble and repair the caliper or wheel cylinder on the wheel(s) with brake drag.n NO - Look for and replace any damaged brake lines. If all brake lines are OK, replace the ABS or VSA modulator-control unit: ABS/except K20Z2 engine model, ABS/K20Z2 engine model, VSA.n |